Dialling Shock Rebound for Northern Beaches Trails

Ever felt like you're getting beaten up on the brake bumps down Ya Mum, or can't quite nail those tight corners on Rockn Robyn? I see this all the time in the workshop – and nine times out of ten, it's rebound that needs tweaking. The good news? A few clicks of that red dial can completely transform how your bike feels.

I've definitely sent it down Route 66 with rebound too fast – you spend half the descent wondering why you're getting bounced around like a pinball. And I've gone the other way too, running it so slow the bike feels like you're pedalling through mud by the bottom. It's all part of figuring out what works for you and our local trails.

Here's what I've learned works well for Northern Beaches terrain.

What is rebound damping?

When you hit a bump, your shock compresses and stores energy in its air spring. That spring wants to push back fast – really fast. Rebound damping slows that extension, controlling how quickly your shock returns to its original position. Turn the red dial one way and the shock extends slower; turn it the other way and it extends faster. That's the simple part. Getting it dialled for your weight, riding style and our local trails – that's what takes a bit of testing.

Proper rebound keeps your rear tyre in contact with the ground. Too fast and the bike gets kicked around, feeling harsh and unpredictable. Too slow and your shock can't recover in time for the next hit, progressively sitting deeper in its travel until you're basically riding a hardtail through rough sections. Most shocks control low‑speed rebound; high‑end models add a separate high‑speed rebound dial for big hits.

Signs your rebound needs adjusting

Rebound too fast

• Rear end kicks or skips on rough terrain instead of tracking smoothly
• Bike feels harsh and chattery, even on moderate bumps
• You get bucked or pushed upwards on jumps and drop‑offs
• Rear tyre bounces on landings instead of settling
• It feels like riding a pogo stick – every bump sends you upward

Rebound too slow

• Shock packs down through repeated hits like brake bumps or rock gardens
• The bike sits lower in its travel than your sag setting, progressively getting worse through a descent
• It feels dead, sluggish or unresponsive
• Shock can't recover quickly enough between hits, using less and less travel
• Rear end feels harsh because you're riding deeper in the stroke where compression ramps up

Northern Beaches reality check

If you've ridden Mt Narra, you know the drill. Route 66 – also called Ya Mum – is one of the more rowdy tracks that follows a rocky ridge with tricky roll‑downs, jumps, a rough chute and a drop to finish by the lake. On this kind of terrain, a shock set too fast will bounce you off the rock slabs, while one set too slow will pack down and get overwhelmed.

By contrast, Rockn Robyn is that more mellow, flowy trail with a few small jumps and tight switchbacks where you want to keep your momentum up. Here you want a slightly faster rebound so the shock extends quickly enough to pump the rollers and maintain speed.

And don't forget Belrose Bowl – that tucked‑away valley with a 2 km green loop and several technical black descents. It's a perfect place to test rebound on both smooth and technical trails. Choose your test section based on the kind of riding you do most: rough, technical lines, flow trails or a mix of both.

How to test & adjust: step‑by‑step

Look, suspension setup can feel a bit overwhelming at first, but this systematic approach makes it pretty straightforward.

Step 1: Set sag first

Rebound adjustment only works if your sag is correct. I usually aim for around 30% sag for trail and enduro bikes and 25% for XC bikes. Use a shock pump and the o‑ring on your shock shaft to measure. This is non‑negotiable – you can't dial rebound properly without correct spring rate first.

Step 2: Find your starting point

Fox shocks: Turn the red rebound dial fully clockwise (marked with +) to close it, then back it out to the manufacturer's recommended clicks. Check your shock's manual or the Fox website for your specific model.

RockShox shocks: Download the RockShox Trailhead app, input your bike, shock model and weight. It gives you a baseline setting. Alternatively, start at the middle of your adjustment range.

Write down your starting position so you know where you came from when you're testing.

Step 3: The curb rebound test

This simple test helps you find the fastest controlled rebound before fine‑tuning on the trail. If you've seen me at the Mt Narra car park fiddling with someone's shock before a ride, this is usually what we're doing:

1. Start with your rebound fully open (fastest setting – turn the red dial fully anti‑clockwise)
2. Find a small curb or gutter (50–100 mm high)
3. While seated in your normal riding position, roll off the curb at walking pace
4. Watch and feel how the shock responds. A single smooth compression and return is perfect. If it bounces back excessively (pogo stick feel), slow the rebound down one click at a time (clockwise for Fox, fewer clicks for RockShox)
5. Repeat until the shock compresses once and returns to sag without overshooting. The goal is the fastest rebound that's still controlled

Step 4: On‑trail testing

Pick a repeatable test section – ideally something with a mix of brake bumps, small bumps and rough braking zones. "Anchors" is an ideal section of trail for this, with a fire trail right next to it for repeatable tests.

Ride the section at normal speed, noting how the shock feels. Make ONE adjustment: add or remove two clicks of rebound, ride the same section again at the same speed and compare. Better, worse or the same? Repeat, adjusting two clicks at a time until you narrow in.

What to feel for:

• Brake bumps: if your rear end packs down and rides low, rebound is too slow – speed it up
• Rollers and pumping sections: if it feels dead and you can't generate rhythm, too slow – speed it up
• Rough descents: if the rear kicks and skips, too fast – slow it down
• After landings: shock should settle quickly without bouncing – bouncing means rebound is too fast

Step 5: Fine‑tune with single clicks

Once you're close, switch to single‑click adjustments. Test again on the same section. The difference between good and perfect can be just one or two clicks.

From my World Cup days: On race tracks, we'd dial rebound for specific courses. Rough, rocky trails needed slightly slower rebound for control, while fast, flowy tracks could run faster rebound to maximise pumping and maintain speed. For weekend riding, I usually suggest finding a middle ground that works for your most‑ridden trails.

Brand‑specific quick guide

Fox shocks (Float, Float X, X2)

• Red dial: rebound adjustment
• Turn clockwise (towards +): slower rebound
• Turn counter‑clockwise (towards –): faster rebound
• X2 models: separate external high‑speed rebound dial on reservoir (black cap)

RockShox shocks (Super Deluxe, Deluxe, Monarch)

• Red adjuster: rebound damping
• Use Trailhead app: gives you baseline settings for your weight and bike
• Counting clicks: start fully closed (turned in), then back out the recommended clicks
• Ultimate models: separate low‑ and high‑speed rebound adjusters

Universal rule: After any air pressure change, re‑check your rebound. More pressure means you need slower rebound; less pressure means you need faster rebound.

Local terrain tuning

Our local terrain has some specific demands, and here's what I've found works well:

Route 66/Ya Mum (Mt Narra): This black trail follows a rocky ridge with tricky roll‑downs, jumps, chutes and a drop to finish by the lake. I usually run slower rebound here for control over roots and rocks – you want the rear to track smoothly without skipping.

Rockn Robyn (Mt Narra): A blue, flowy trail with jump shoots and tight switchbacks. Run slightly faster rebound so the shock extends quickly enough to pump the rollers and maintain speed.

Belrose Bowl: A tucked‑away valley offering a luscious 2 km green loop and technical black descents. Adjust rebound based on whether you're on the green loop (faster rebound to pump) or dropping into the technical descents (slower rebound for traction).

Wet conditions: Slow rebound 1–2 clicks when roots and rocks are slippery – extra control keeps the rear planted. You'll thank yourself on those slick sandstone sections.

Summer dusty conditions: Check your air pressure more frequently; dust and heat can affect your shock's performance.

Flat pedals vs clipless: Riders on flat pedals often prefer slightly slower rebound to stay connected through rough sections. Clipless riders don't have this concern as much; test both ways and see what feels best for you.

Do you need different rebound settings for different trails? At race level, yes. For weekend riding, I'd suggest finding a middle‑ground setting that works for most of your riding. You can always adjust a few clicks before a ride if you know you're hitting something specific, but don't overthink it – close enough is usually good enough.

When to get professional help

Look, I'm not trying to drum up business here – most riders can dial this in themselves. But sometimes DIY adjustment isn't enough:

Outside the standard weight range? Under 60 kg or over 100 kg and need custom valving? The stock rebound range might not cover what you need.

Can't find a sweet spot? If you're at one extreme of the adjuster range and it's still not right, your shock's valving might not match your setup.

Shock feels inconsistent: Works fine some days, terrible others? Could be worn seals or contaminated oil – time for a service.

Service intervals: Fox recommends full fork and shock service every 125 hours of riding or once a year (whichever comes first). Worn components change how rebound feels and works, so keeping on top of servicing makes a real difference.

If you're noticing warning signs your fork needs service, don't wait – worn fork seals and stiction issues can affect your overall suspension performance.

If any of this sounds familiar, bring it in and we'll sort it out.

Quick troubleshooting

Changed rebound but it feels exactly the same? Check your air pressure first. If pressure's dropped, that changes everything.

Shock won't return at all, even on fastest setting? That's not a rebound issue – your shock needs a service (worn seals or contaminated oil can prevent proper function).

Feels different on different trails? Completely normal – terrain dictates how your shock works. What feels perfect on smooth flow trails might feel too fast on technical roots.

Bottoming out constantly? That's a compression or spring rate issue, not rebound. Check your sag and compression settings or add volume spacers.

Wrap‑up

Rebound damping is one of those adjustments that makes a massive difference once you dial it in. It's free to adjust, takes 10 minutes to test properly, and the performance gain – better traction, more control, faster times – is immediately noticeable. Start with the curb test, head to your local trails and systematically work through it. Two‑click changes on the same section make the biggest difference. You'll find the sweet spot faster than you think.

And remember: rebound isn't set‑and‑forget. Seasons change, trails change and your riding changes. I usually check mine periodically, especially after any air pressure changes or services. Your bike will thank you, and so will your lap times.

Questions about your setup? Get in touch and I'll walk you through it. Sometimes a quick conversation saves hours of trial and error on the trail.

Riding Mt Narra this weekend? Free setup advice about compression and rebound adjustments when you bring your suspension in for any service. I'll walk you through the setup and get you sorted before you hit the trails.